Computer Assembly Essential Knowledge in One Article - From Components to Purchasing Strategy

# Foreword

This article won't teach you how to screw in a screw. Instead, it aims to discuss the essential things you need to understand before building a PC: **what components make up a computer, how to choose each component, and the strategies of different brands.**

You'll find many articles online like "2000 Yuan PC Build Configurations," but anyone who has actually built a few machines knows that configurations are static, while selection strategies are dynamic. To avoid being ripped off or wasting money, first understand what each component does, then make trade-offs based on your budget.

# I. The Eight Essential Components for Building a PC

Regardless of the cost, a complete DIY computer cannot do without these eight components:

| #    | Component             | One-Sentence Function                               |
| ---- | --------------------- | --------------------------------------------------- |
| 1    | CPU (Central Processing Unit) | The computer's brain, responsible for calculations |
| 2    | Motherboard           | The base that connects all components               |
| 3    | RAM (Random Access Memory) | Short-term data cache, affects multitasking and loading speed |
| 4    | GPU (Graphics Processing Unit) | Image rendering, crucial for gaming/video editing |
| 5    | Storage (SSD)         | Long-term storage for the system and files          |
| 6    | PSU (Power Supply Unit) | Provides power to the entire system                 |
| 7    | Cooler                | Cools down the CPU                                  |
| 8    | Case                  | Houses all components and determines the appearance |

**Note:** Operating Systems (Windows/Linux), monitors, keyboards, mice, and network cards (wired/wireless) are not among these eight, but they are also necessities. Don't forget to budget for them after building your PC.

# II. CPU: Intel or AMD?

This is the first choice you'll face when building a PC.

### Current Landscape

- **Intel**: Core i3 / i5 / i7 / i9 (Current mainstream: 13th/14th Gen)
- **AMD**: Ryzen 3 / 5 / 7 / 9 (Current mainstream: Ryzen 7000 / 9000 Series)

### Selection Strategy

**Pure Gaming (and nothing else):** Both brands are viable. At the same price point, AMD generally offers stronger multi-core performance, while Intel may provide slightly higher frame rates in some online games. Don't overthink it; buy based on your budget.

**Gaming + Streaming/Recording:** AMD is recommended. Its multi-core advantage ensures smoother streaming while gaming.

**Productivity (Video Editing / Code Compilation / Running Virtual Machines):** AMD offers more cores and better value. Some Intel models have integrated graphics acceleration (Quick Sync) which can speed up video encoding and exporting. However, this advantage is less significant if you have a dedicated graphics card.

**Pure Office Work / Browsing / Stock Trading:** A CPU with integrated graphics is sufficient; you don't need a dedicated GPU. Intel CPUs without the "F" suffix (e.g., i5-14600K) and AMD CPUs with the "G" suffix (e.g., Ryzen 5 8600G) have integrated graphics.

### A Small Pitfall

Intel's 13th/14th Gen CPUs had some stability issues (known as "ring bus instability" or "downclocking"). Although claimed to be fixed, if you're not in a hurry, you might want to wait or consider AMD directly. This isn't about favoring one brand over another; it's a real risk.

# III. Motherboard: Determines What Components You Can Use

The motherboard is the "socket" for all components; it dictates what CPU, RAM, and storage you can install.

### Chipset is Key

The core of a motherboard is its chipset, not its brand. Different chipsets determine:

1.  Which CPUs are supported (Intel or AMD, and which generation)
2.  How fast your RAM can run (can it support high-frequency DDR5)
3.  The number of M.2 slots and PCIe slots
4.  Whether overclocking is possible

**Intel Chipsets (LGA1700/1851):**

-   H610 → Entry-level, no overclocking, fewer ports but cheaper
-   B760 → Mainstream, good value, the choice for most people
-   Z790 → Flagship, supports overclocking, more ports, suitable for high-end

**AMD Chipsets (AM5, AM4):**

-   A620 → Entry-level, simplified features
-   B650 → Mainstream, good value, the preferred choice for AM5 platforms
-   X670 / X870 → Flagship, full range of ports, for enthusiasts

**A common pitfall:** Buying a "K" series CPU (e.g., i5-14600K) but pairing it with an H610 motherboard. This prevents you from using the overclocking features of the "K" series CPU, essentially wasting money. In simple terms: **For non-overclocking builds, choose mainstream chipsets (B760 / B650); for overclocking, choose flagship chipsets (Z790 / X670).**

### Brand Selection

Major motherboard brands include: ASUS, GIGABYTE, MSI, ASRock, Colorful, MAXSUN, Onda, etc.

**Selection Strategy:**

-   **ASUS, MSI, GIGABYTE** → Top-tier brands, stable quality, good BIOS, reliable after-sales service. Slightly more expensive, but hassle-free.
-   **ASRock** → Near top-tier, good value, often features unique port combinations, suitable for those who prioritize specs over brand.
-   **Colorful, MAXSUN** → Value-oriented. Can be considered for limited budgets. BIOS might not be as good as top-tier, but fine for daily use.
-   **Onda, JINGYUE, etc.** → Extreme budget options. Recommended for experienced users. Beginners should generally avoid them.

**One-sentence advice:** If your budget allows, buy ASUS/MSI. For value, buy ASRock. For a tight budget, buy Colorful.

### Form Factor (Size)

-   ATX → Standard ATX, more ports, better expandability
-   M-ATX → Compact, sufficient for most users, good value
-   ITX → Ultra-small, for small cases, expensive and difficult to build, not recommended for a first build

# IV. RAM: Frequency, Capacity, Timings

RAM is perhaps the component that is least likely to be chosen incorrectly, but most likely to be overspent on.

### Capacity

-   **16GB (8GB×2)** → Office work + light gaming, sufficient
-   **32GB (16GB×2)** → Mainstream configuration, gaming + light productivity, **highly recommended for this tier**
-   **64GB (32GB×2)** → Heavy productivity (large project compilation, video rendering, multiple virtual machines)
-   **128GB and above** → For specialized needs, not for general users

**Why is 32GB considered the sweet spot?** New AAA games like "Black Myth: Wukong" and "Alan Wake 2" are already pushing the limits of 16GB. 32GB ensures you won't have to worry for the next 3-5 years.

### Frequency

-   DDR4: 3200MHz is the sweet spot, 3600MHz is better but with limited improvement.
-   DDR5: 6000MHz is entry-level, 6400MHz-7200MHz is the mainstream sweet spot.

**The pitfall of 6400MHz RAM:** Populating all four RAM slots with high-frequency RAM is likely to cause it to downclock. It's recommended to start with two sticks, install them in slots 2/4, and enable XMP/EXPO to achieve the advertised speeds.

### Timings (CL Value)

A simple example:

-   DDR5-6400 CL38: CL value is 38
-   DDR5-6400 CL32: CL value is 32 (better)

**Lower CL values are better**, but don't get too hung up on it. At the same frequency, lower CL values are more expensive. For value, mainstream CL values (CL32-CL40 for DDR5 6400) are acceptable.

### Brands

-   **Top-tier**: Kingston, G.Skill, Corsair, Samsung (OEM)
-   **Value**: Guangwei, Crucial, Jinbada
-   **Special Note**: Avoid no-name RAM; your data is priceless.

**Core Selection Principle:** Focus on frequency and timings over brand. Choose the cheaper option for the same specifications. **Never buy "server pull" RAM for a home build;** compatibility issues are highly likely.

# V. Graphics Card: The Bulk of the PC Budget

If you don't play AAA games, edit videos, or do AI art, you can skip the dedicated graphics card (use integrated graphics). However, if you fall into these categories, the GPU typically accounts for 30%-50% of the total PC budget.

### Current Landscape

-   **NVIDIA**: RTX 4060 / 4070 / 4080 / 4090 (and SUPER and Ti variants)
-   **AMD**: RX 7600 / 7700 / 7800 XT / 7900 GRE
-   **Intel**: Arc A580 / A750 / A770 (and the new Arc B series)

### Selection Strategy

**Primarily for Gaming:**

-   Pure gaming, no ray tracing → AMD offers better value at the same price point.
-   Gaming + ray tracing → NVIDIA, RTX ray tracing performance is indeed superior.
-   1080p resolution → RTX 4060 / RX 7600 are sufficient.
-   2K resolution → RTX 4070+ / RX 7800 XT+.
-   4K resolution → RTX 4080+ / RTX 4090.

**Productivity (Video Editing / 3D Rendering / AI):**

-   NVIDIA is the top choice. The CUDA ecosystem is too strong; many professional software applications only support NVIDIA GPU acceleration.
-   Video Editing: NVIDIA's NVENC encoder is slightly better than AMD's.
-   AI / ML: NVIDIA is the sole option; there's no real choice here.

**Brand Tiers (using NVIDIA as an example):**

Instead of listing specific brands, here's a general rule:

-   **Flagship Series** (ASUS ROG, MSI SUPRIM) → Best cooling, highest quality components, most expensive, 10%-20% premium.
-   **Mainstream Series** (ASUS TUF, MSI GAMING X, GIGABYTE GAMING OC, Colorful Ultra) → Good value, **the choice for the vast majority of people**.
-   **Entry-level Series** (VENTUS, TORX, EAGLE) → Sufficient, some compromises in cooling, a few hundred yuan cheaper.
-   **Budget Models** (various small brands with dual/single fans) → Usable, but temperatures and noise might be concerning.

**Not recommended to buy used GPUs as your primary card (unless you know exactly what you're doing)**; the market for mining cards and refurbished cards is too risky.

# VI. Storage: SSD is a Must

**The baseline for PC builds in 2025: You must use an SSD; do not buy a mechanical hard drive for your system drive anymore.**

### Types

-   **M.2 NVMe SSD** → Mainstream, plugs directly into the motherboard, fastest speeds (5000-14000 MB/s), for system/game installation.
-   **SATA SSD** → Older interface, much slower speeds (around 550 MB/s), only suitable for upgrading older PCs.
-   **Hard Disk Drive (HDD)** → Only suitable for cold data storage (photo libraries, movie collections), do not use for installing the system.

**Another pitfall with M.2 drives:** Some M.2 slots use the SATA protocol instead of NVMe, significantly reducing speed. Check your motherboard manual before buying and look for "M.2 NVMe" or check the slot's labeling.

### Capacity

-   **512GB** → Barely enough, installing the OS and a few programs will fill it up.
-   **1TB** → Entry-level capacity, **highly recommended**.
-   **2TB** → Comfortable, the preferred choice for those with many games/large assets.
-   **4TB+** → Go for it if your budget allows.

### Brands

-   **Tier 1**: Samsung, Western Digital (SN series), SK Hynix (P41/Solidigm), Zhitai (Chinese champion)
-   **Value**: Kioxia (formerly Toshiba), Kingston
-   **Domestic**: Zhitai (TiPlus7100, Ti600), Aigo - good performance, affordable prices.

**Core Selection:** SSDs with a cache are faster than those without (but more expensive); cacheless SSDs are sufficient for daily use. SLC cache strategy affects daily experience more than peak speeds, but explaining this would be too much. In a nutshell: **Samsung 990 Pro, SK Hynix P41, and Zhitai TiPlus7100 are all safe choices.**

# VII. Power Supply: The Most Overlooked Component

Many first-time builders try to save money on the PSU – this is **one of the places you should least compromise**. A poor PSU might not only fail to power your configuration but can also damage your hardware in severe cases.

### How to Calculate Wattage

Estimation formula:

```
CPU Peak Power Consumption + GPU Peak Power Consumption + 100W (Headroom) ≈ Recommended Wattage
```

Example:

-   i5-14600K (approx. 180W) + RTX 4070 (approx. 200W) + 100W ≈ 480W
-   For safety, buy a **650W-750W** PSU.

**Do not buy a PSU with just enough wattage.** Running a PSU at full load for extended periods shortens its lifespan and increases noise. Leaving 20%-30% headroom is the most comfortable.

### Certification Standards

Look at two things: **80 PLUS Certification** and **PSU Platform**.

-   80 PLUS White → Usable, not recommended.
-   80 PLUS Bronze → Entry-level option.
-   80 PLUS Gold → **Recommended, best value**.
-   80 PLUS Platinum → High-end.
-   80 PLUS Titanium → Top-tier, outrageously expensive.

Regarding PSU platforms, **LLC resonant converter + DC-DC converter** is the current mainstream and good solution. If you don't understand the platform, rely on the brand.

### Brand Recommendations

-   **Top-tier**: Seasonic, Super Flower, FSP
-   **Mainstream**: Segotep, Great Wall, Cooler Master, Antec
-   **Budget**: SAMA, MSI (PSUs), ASUS (PSUs)

**Seasonic Focus, Super Flower Leadex, and FSP Hydro** series are all time-tested classic solutions.

**Most Important Thing:** Ensure the PSU has **enough PCIe power connectors**. New GPUs (RTX 40 series) use the 12VHPWR connector. Older PSUs might require an adapter; confirm this in advance.

# VIII. Cooler

CPU coolers are divided into two main categories: air cooling and liquid cooling.

### Air Cooling

-   **Low-profile** → Small size, suitable for ITX small cases.
-   **Tower (single-tower / dual-tower)** → Mainstream, good value.

**Selection Strategy:**

-   i5 / Ryzen 5 level → A hundred-yuan air cooler (e.g., Thermalright AX120 SE, Deepcool GAMMAXX 400) is sufficient.
-   i7 / Ryzen 7 level → Dual-tower air cooler (e.g., Thermalright PA120, Deepcool AS500).
-   i9 / Ryzen 9 level → Top-tier air cooler or liquid cooler.

### Liquid Cooling

-   240mm AIO → Similar performance to dual-tower air coolers, excels in aesthetics.
-   360mm AIO → For cooling i9 / Ryzen 9 level heat.
-   420mm AIO → Top-tier.

**The truth about liquid cooling:** Most people don't need liquid cooling. A 360mm AIO looks good and stylish, but a dual-tower air cooler (around 200 yuan) offers similar cooling performance to a 360mm AIO (500-1000 yuan) and eliminates the risk of leaks. **If this is your first PC build and your budget is limited, an air cooler is perfectly fine.**

### Brands

-   Air Cooling: Thermalright, Deepcool, Noctua (expensive but quiet)
-   Liquid Cooling: ASUS ROG, NZXT, Corsair, Thermalright, Valkyrie

# IX. Case: More Than Just Looks

The priority for case selection: **Airflow > Size Compatibility > Aesthetics > Price**

### Size Compatibility

The case must fit all your components. The most common issues are:

1.  **GPU Length**: High-end GPUs are getting larger, with many exceeding 30cm. Check the "maximum GPU length" before buying a case.
2.  **Cooler Height**: Dual-tower air coolers are typically 155-165mm tall; some narrow cases cannot accommodate them.
3.  **PSU Bay**: ATX PSU or SFX PSU; different cases are compatible with different types.

### Airflow

-   Front intake, rear exhaust → Standard positive pressure airflow.
-   Bottom and front intake, top and rear exhaust → Better airflow.
-   **"Stuffy" cases (front panel with solid glass)** → Absolutely avoid; a cooling disaster.

### Brands

-   Mainstream: Lian Li, Phanteks, NZXT, Fractal Design
-   Value: Segotep, Jonsbo, Aigo
-   Quality: Jonsbo (excels at aluminum small cases)

# X. Selection Strategy Summary

### Budget Allocation Formula (Reference)

| Scenario        | CPU  | GPU  | Motherboard | RAM  | Storage | PSU  | Cooler + Case |
| --------------- | ---- | ---- | ----------- | ---- | ------- | ---- | ------------- |
| Office/Browsing | 40%  | 0%   | 25%         | 10%  | 15%     | 5%   | 5%            |
| Mainstream Gaming | 20%  | 35%  | 10%         | 10%  | 10%     | 8%   | 7%            |
| Gaming + Productivity | 20%  | 40%  | 10%         | 10%  | 8%      | 7%   | 5%            |
| Heavy Productivity | 25%  | 30%  | 12%         | 15%  | 8%      | 5%   | 5%            |

This is a reference ratio, not a strict rule. Adjust based on your actual needs.

### Overall Selection Logic

1.  **First, decide on the CPU and GPU** → These two determine the overall performance and the bulk of the budget.
2.  **Choose the motherboard based on the CPU** → Chipset compatibility, sufficient ports.
3.  **RAM follows the CPU/Motherboard** → DDR4 or DDR5, the motherboard decides.
4.  **Calculate PSU wattage based on CPU + GPU** → Leave headroom.
5.  **Buy storage based on needs** → 1TB NVMe as a starting point.
6.  **Cooling should be sufficient** → Don't overspend on liquid cooling just for aesthetics.
7.  **Choose the case last** → Confirm all components will fit.

# XI. Common Misconceptions

**1. "A higher wattage PSU uses more electricity."**
False. A PSU only draws the power it actually needs. A 750W PSU powering a 300W configuration will draw approximately 300W (plus conversion losses).

**2. "An i7 is always better than an i5."**
Not necessarily. An i7-14700K is better than an i5-14600K, but if you're primarily gaming, an i5-14600K paired with a better GPU will typically yield better gaming performance than an i7-14700K with a weaker GPU. **A balanced system is more important than having a single high-end component.**

**3. "Liquid cooling is always better than air cooling."**
For most CPUs, a 200 yuan dual-tower air cooler and a 600 yuan 360mm AIO offer similar cooling performance. The advantages of liquid cooling are aesthetics and a tidier case interior, while the disadvantages are cost, risk of leaks, and limited lifespan (the pump can degrade).

**4. "Buying a used GPU offers high value."**
The value is indeed high, but so is the risk. Mining cards, refurbished cards, repaired cards... the market is very murky. It's not impossible to buy, but you need to do your homework.

**5. "High-end motherboards improve performance over low-end ones."**
Motherboards do not affect performance; they only affect features. An H610 and a Z790 running the same i5 CPU will have identical frame rates. The difference lies in overclocking capabilities, the number of ports, and the ability to install more storage.

# A Final Word

Building a PC isn't a difficult task. The biggest hurdle is actually your willingness to spend time understanding these things. This article has covered the selection strategies for all components. You don't need to memorize everything at once; when you're ready to buy, just refer back to this guide.

If you're already in the process of building, you can create a configuration list based on the logic above and then check for any imbalances or contradictions.

Oh, and don't forget to enable XMP / EXPO in the BIOS after building your PC – otherwise, your high-frequency RAM will run at its default low speed.